Straightening Excessively Curly Hair
Conditioners are tonics for hair, infusing strands with vitamins, proteins, botanicals and herbs. They bring nutrients to the hair and make it manageable, lustrous, silky and supple.
When hair is baby fine, for example, a conditioning treatment may let the hairs rest close to each other. Today, volume can easily be created through styling aids geared to different hair types.
Excessively curly hair does require different handling, different styling techniques and different product formulations than other hair textures. In comparison to straight hair, it has similar amino acid content, 1 slightly larger diameter and slightly less water content (as measured via Differential Scanning Calorimetry). 2 It grows from the scalp into small twisted spirals due to the configuration of the hair follicles which form scalp hair fibers of varying, elliptical cross-sectional size and shape. 3 The tight-curl pattern makes excessively curly hair particularly susceptible to breakage when mechanically manipulated, i.e., combed or brushed.
Also, stylability is limited because many of the most popular styles cannot be achieved without special handling. To achieve the widest variety of hairstyles, excessively curly hair is often straightened, either by pressing or lanthionization (relaxing).
Pressing
Pressing straightens excessively curly hair using heat, oils and metal implements. This practice dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, when Madame C.J. Walker originated the ethnic hair care industry. She first developed an ointment that gave African-American hair a special gloss and softness. After ointment application, metal pressing combs or round tongs (called "pullers") were used to straighten the hair, section by section. After straightening, it was curled with hot metal curling irons.
Procedure: Place A in a stainless steel container. Heat to 78 degrees C while stirring with Lightnin' mixer. Weigh 8; place in separate container. Blend B using Lighten' mixer while heating to 80 degrees C. Once A and B reach specified temperatures, add 8 to A; mix for 10 minutes. Cool mixture to 55 degrees C. Pour into containers while still hot Cool mixture further to 25 degrees C by passing it through cooling tunnel where temperature is maintained at 5 degrees C.
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